Hayes River, Manitoba

Of all the northern Manitoba rivers, the Hayes river stands out as the most diverse historically and is considered the ultimate in wilderness tripping. The Hayes River offers the opportunity to explore the wilderness, experience wild white water and enjoy some of the richest Canadian history anywhere north of the 49th parallel. Pictograph sites testify to the early use of the Hayes as a transportation route for the Aboriginal people as they traveled in birch bark canoes hunting and trapping along its banks. The renegade fur traders (coureur de bois) discovered the rich fur trade and began traveling and trading up and down the Hayes River with the Cree. Europeans followed exploring, mapping and surveying and eventually, the Hudson’s Bay Company established trading depots along the Hayes river.

The real experience is the Hayes River itself. Apart from the educational values, the river provides a canoeing / kayaking experience that is awe inspiring. From its beginning at Norway House, the Hayes River travels over 580 kilometers to its end point at York Factory and the Hudson’s Bay. The diversity of paddling is phenomenal, varying in morphology from the broad silt laden Nelson River to a glorified creek, the Echimamish River and its beaver dams, then the white water of the Upper Hayes, the quiet waters of Oxford and Knee Lakes, then on to the bouldery rapids of the shield region and finally, a float trip through the Hudson Bay Lowlands and on to the Bay.

The climax of the trip is the historic York Factory. Established in 1682 and rebuilt on more than one occasion, this structure represents an edifice to the vast empire of the Hudson Bay Company. You will arrive at York Factory in the company of the ghosts of thousands of fur traders, the native cree and explorers that preceded you, by canoe. Take the time to explore this site and absorb the history.

Hayes River Geography:

The Hayes River route cuts its path through two ecologically diverse zones, the Precambrian Shield and, down stream, the Hudson Bay Lowlands. The route via the Echimamish River and the upper Hayes river has numerous unique features, both man made and natural. You’ll encounter several old derelict dam sites constructed by the Hudson’s Bay Company, to hold sufficient water to allow passage by the large York boats that traveled this route. Large stands of white spruce, black spruce bogs, quiet meadows and rocky outcrops dominate the landscape here. Glacial outwash topography dominates the area.

Once in the Hayes River, having traversed the Painted Stone Portage, topographical features like Hell Gates Gorge, a 17 km gorge with high granite banks, looms in sharp contrast to the closed in environs of the Echimamish River. From Knee Lake to the junction of the Fox River, glacial till predominates and as you progress down stream, you encounter bank collapse, old deltaic formations and migrating channels. Inter marine deposits of clays and silts interspersed with sand and ice rafted debris become evident as you approach the Hudson Bay Lowlands. Just before the bay, old beach deposits are cut by the Hayes river creating sandy cliffs.

The alternate route that begins at the Bigstone/ Fox River is dominated by silt and clay deposits, exposed bedrock, black spruce forest, spectacular water falls, and a cut that is reminiscent of a canyon. Prior to the junction of the Hayes river, glacial till grades to the gravel and boulder banks of the Hayes river.

Hayes River Facts:

• The Hayes River is the longest naturally flowing river in Manitoba and drains the third largest watershed.
• The Hayes River is one of the few rivers in North America that remain in a wild or unaltered state.
• The Hayes River offers unparalleled wilderness canoeing and kayaking.
• The Hayes River served, for over 100 years as the major highway into the western interior of the continent.
• In 2006, the Hayes River was designated a Canadian Heritage River for its role in the development of Canada as a nation and its contribution to the early Canadian history.
• The Hayes River contains 45 rapids of which 43 are runnable, 26 portages and 94 campsites.
• Wildlife is abundant and includes moose, black bear, wolf, fox, lynx, martin, red squirrel, otter and beaver to name a few. Avian residents include ruffed grouse, a variety of dabbling and diving ducks, Canada goose, eagles, osprey, a variety of song birds etc. Estuarine wildlife includes Beluga whales and harbor seals.

Hayes River History:

No other Canadian river flowing into the Hudson’s Bay has a more illustrious historical past than Manitoba’s Hayes River. Traveled for centuries by the native people for purposes of hunting and trapping, this river soon became known and discovered by some of Canada’s foremost explorers, trappers, surveyors and traders. Explorers like Henry Kelsey, David Thompson and Samuel Hearne traveled these waters.

With the development of the Hudson Bay Company’s interest in the river, surveyors Peter Fidler, Philip Turnor and J.B. Tyrrell of the Geological Survey of Canada surveyed and mapped the Hayes river and its surrounding topography. The most significant presence on the river system was unquestionably the Hudson’s Bay Company. The Hudson’s Bay Company developed a number of trading posts along the Hayes river not the least of which was its Entrepot and trading post, York Factory.

It served for nearly two centuries as the major trans-shipment, administrative and manufacturing center within the fur trade network. As control of the fur trade shifted between the English and the French, a total of three York Factories were actually built in different locations. The present location ( York Factory III) is actually upstream of the original York Factory I and II. Erosion of the riverbank on the Hayes river has completely eradicated the I and II sites. Even the present site, York Factory III is much closer to the Hayes river than during its hay day. The York Factory existed in one form or another from1684 until it was finally closed its door in 1957 and was given to the Government of Canada.

The Hayes river was selected as the river of choice for navigating to the interior from Hudson’s Bay because the other options, the Nelson and the Churchill Rivers were too fast to navigate upstream. The Hayes could be navigated both ways by either canoe or York boats. One of the most remarkable navigational feats took place on the Hayes between 1811 and 1815 when settlers and supplies (including farm equipment and livestock) were transported by York boats to the Red River from Hudson’s Bay via this route. The Hayes River was given its name by Pierre Radisson in 1684 after Sir James Hayes, secretary to Prince Rupert.

Recreation on the Hayes River:

The Hayes River Route offers unparalleled wilderness canoeing and camping. Nine prestine lakes and connecting rivers in the long route to Hudson Bay offer a remoteness and challenge unsurpassed in a canoeing adventure. The long route starts at the ferry crossing road and the expansive silty green waters of the Nelson River to the junction of the Echinamish River. This river is marked on David Thompson’s Northwest company map as “each a way mak mus brook”, which means water that flows both ways. This 60 plus kilometer meandering brackish water creek is the link to the Hayes River. Beaver dams occur occasionally and remnant man made dams built in the 1600’s in order to float the massive York boats, are still evident along its route. The Painted Stone Portage exhibits the anomaly of “the river that flows both ways” as this 50 meter portage takes you out of the Echimamish River and into the Upper Hayes River.

There is a 220 meter drop from this point to Hudson’s Bay. You’ll encounter several lakes in this section and the Robinson Fall (take the old dilapidated tramway used to haul York boats around the falls). Then the beautiful 10 kilometer gorge at Hell’s gate and then the first real serious white water just past the ancient dolmen stones. Next is Lake country. Paddling through three windswept lakes and connecting river with treacherous 175 km. span. The fishing is fantastic for Northern Pike and Walleye. There are 10 sets of rapids upon leaving Oxford Lake (Knife rapids) requiring a good scout before you tackle them. Some running, lining and ferrying may be required, then Trout falls, a rest stop for the York boat oarsmen and a major portage and great camping. The 65 kilometer Knee Lake is next, offering great fishing and sometimes hideous winds that hamper progress. Fortunately, there are considerably more campsites than on Oxford Lake. After paddling Knee Lake and perhaps visiting the first class Knee Lake Lodge, you pass through a series of boulder strewn rapids that require goods technique, then into Swampy Lake and the Canadian shield transition . From here to the junction of the Fox River there is continual fun and games, white water including the Neesootakuskaywin rapids and the Kakwa rapids which you definitely do not run. You’ll also pass the highest piece of ground in eastern Manitoba, Brassey Hill; check out the view! Once you get to “the Rock” (Whitemud falls) you enter more subdued water but flows increase at the junction of the Fox River and then again when God’s River joins the Hayes river. From the Fox River it’s about a 4 day float trip (assuming no major head winds) to York Factory and Hudson’s Bay. Take a day or two to enjoy York Factory’s sites and history. Parks Canada personnel are usually on hand during the summer months and are a wealth of information.

Tidal flats extend for several kilometers into the Bay and we strongly recommend that any desire to attempt to paddle from York Factory to Churchill and the train back to Thompson be discarded as a very bad idea. Weather on the coast is ever changing and winds can blow up in minutes. In shallow tidal water, this is a formula for disaster. Please do not do it!

There is no camping at York Factory due to the possibility of Polar Bear encounters so choose a campsite carefully and equip yourself adequately in the unlikely event you have a bear problem..

Hayes River Access:

There are several options for exploring the Hayes River canoe route;

1. Sea Rive Crossing Route (the long route): Canoes are transported from the Venture Air Floatplane Base in Thompson to the ferry crossing just north of Norway House (22-28 days and nearly 600 kms.)
   
   
2. Oxford Lake Route (the intermediate route): Canoes, gear and people are transported by float plane to Oxford Lake where some of the est rapids on the Hayes can be experienced and then the quiet transition to the Hudson Bay Lowlands and York Factory. (14-18 days)
   
   
3. Bigstone / Fox River Route (the short route): Canoes, gear and people are transported from the Venture Air Float plane Base to the Bigstone / Fox River. The short route along the Bigstone / Fox River is a gentler paddle and avoids the big open lake segment (Oxford, Knee and Swampy Lakes) and the potential struggle of paddling against the wind. (10-14 days).

Note: There is no barge service to or from York Factory. Return trip is by floatplane to Thompson Manitoba by Venture Air.

Hayes River Services:

Services after Thompson Manitoba are very meager. If you’re taking the long route through Knee Lake, there are excellent services at the Knee Lake resort and lodge. A telephone is available as are meals, lodging and shower facilities. You will have to make arrangements with the lodge before hand for these amenities, however, in the event of an emergency, it’s comforting to have the lodge along the route. A telephone is also available at Oxford House at the Band Office. First aid is available at both locations. At York Factory, Parks Canada usually has staff on site to assist if required and the Silver Goose Lodge will provide accommodation and other services. First Aid is available at both locations.

Hayes River Hazards:

The Hayes River Canoe Trip Route requires a high degree of competence in both white water and wilderness skills. There are many rapids and dangerous waterfalls along the Hayes particularly between Oxford Lake and the Fox Lake junction Extreme care and good judgment are require throughout the trip. Upon nearing the Hudson’s Bay coast, you must be ever vigilant of encountering Polar Bears. Be extremely careful while hiking in country with thick stands of willows or in undulating ground along the river course. Bears like to hole up in depressions during the hot summer days to keep cool and you can easily surprise one while hiking. Be bear wise, be prepared!

Learn About Hayes River Canoe Trips

Venture Air is an experienced floatplane charter company with extensive knowledge of many rivers in northern Manitoba. They have being providing Hayes River canoe trips to canoests and wilderness seekers for many years. Inquire about your Hayes River Canoe Trips now!

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