Little Churchill River, Manitoba

The little Churchill river flows into the expansive Churchill River, during the last leg of the trip. The Churchill River winds its way all the way to your destination, the town of Churchill on Hudson's Bay. This trip begins on the Rasp River, accessed via Campbell Lake, a short float plane trip from the Venture Air Base in Thompson. This route has several advantages in that the Rasp and Little Churchill Rivers are relatively small and there is only one large lake (Waskaiowaka Lake) on its course. After paddling the Rasp, Pelletier Lake and Waskaiowaka Lake, you enter the Little Churchill River System. Very little has been written historically about the Little Churchill River. It would appear that any knowledge of historic use of this route has been lost to the folklore of the Swampy Cree that have inhabited this area of Manitoba. Today, the Little Churchill remains in its natural state offering a variety of pool, riffle and rapid excitement that is quite challenging.

The Churchill River itself, in its natural state had massive flows exceeding 60,000 cubic feet per second seasonally and creating many long and treacherous rapids. The development of the Churchill River Diversion Project in the 1970’s and the subsequent hydroelectric project at Missi Falls, resulted in reduced flows in the 10,000 CFS range. Manitoba Hydro had inadvertently created a marvelous white water river that is a delight to paddle. In 1978, Hydro continued to reduce the flows on the Lower Churchill so that now, 500CFS is a more typical flow during the summer months. The entire system remains a very interesting and fun river to canoe. In years of high snow pack and summer rains, the Churchill can, and does transform to its former self, providing very challenging and in some cased very dangerous waters. In 2005, for example, flows were so high that the lakes on the system rose 10 to 14 feet, floating cabins downstream and destroying water level monitoring stations.

The trip terminates at the Churchill River Estuary near the town of Churchill. The estuary is a wildlife and historic bonanza. Besides the harbor seals that you begin to encounter in the fresh water of the Churchill, the largest population of Beluga Whales in Hudson’s Bay congregate in the estuary. Polar bears roam the estuary as well, cooling themselves in hollows they dig in the riparian vegetation and scrounging for food along its shoreline. Historically, you can visit the Prince of Whales Fort built in 1732 by the Hudson’s Bay Company and the neighboring cannon battery that protected the fort. In addition, the town of Churchill itself is interesting and its people friendly and helpful.

Little Churchill River Geography:

Of the many rivers that flow into Hudson’s Bay, the Churchill is the second largest ((the Nelson River is the largest). Discovered in 1619, it was used for centuries as a trading route by the Hudson’s bay Company. In the early 1800, it was all but abandoned by the Hudson Bay Company as the Hayes proved to be the river of choice for moving goods. The Little Churchill has very little information on its geography/geology and, as such, remains aloof in its description. Its course traverses the northern forest biome of White and Black spruce forests interrupted by low lying wet areas dominated by sedge meadows and hummocks of mosses and Labrador tea. The soils are predominately glacial fluvial in nature, overlying shale and limestone bedrock. The Churchill downstream of the Little Churchill cuts through the sands, gravel and clay deposits of glacial deposition. In some locations, the bedrock has been cut by the river to form canyons. The occasional esker is evident and provides excellent hiking opportunities. As you approach the Bay, the stands of conifer are confined to the river valley and tundra dominated the area uplands. The tundra reaches down to the river near the mouth. A fire in 1996 destroyed much of the forest cover and exposed the banks of the Little Churchill and Churchill Rivers. As a result, the permafrost in the soil thawed along the banks and caused slumping along the north side of the river bank in places. Nature continues to modify these rivers, so the scenery changes form year to year as regeneration modifies the river banks.

It is and area of abundant wildlife of which the moose is the most frequently observed. Mammals like the Black Bear, wolf, fox, marten, mink, red squirrel, cottontail rabbits, lynx and the occasional wolverine are frequent residents as well as a wide variety of song birds eagles, osprey, ruffed grouse, a variety of waterfowl and the pesky little “camp robber” the gray Jay are common bird life.

Little Churchill River Facts:

• The Churchill River is the second largest River that empties into Hudson Bay.
• The Churchill River Diversion Project and the Hydro electric dam upstream at Missi Falls tamed the river in the 1970’s and created an excellent white water experience for the intermediate canoeist
• The Little Churchill River remain in its natural state
• Isolation is rated as high with the only habitation occurring at Dunlop’s Lodge (outlet of Waskaiowaka Lake), Recluse Lodge (status unknown, may be vacant) and the town of Churchill.
• Historic values rated very high, the Prince of Whales Fort, the Battery, and Cape Merry as well as Churchill itself.
• The Churchill River estuary is home to the largest population of Beluga whales occurring in the Hudson’s Bay area.
• Polar Bears frequent the shores of Hudson’s Bay in this area providing an extraordinary sighting opportunity. Extreme care must be used when viewing these bears as they are very unpredictable.

Little Churchill River History:

Although old campsites and dilapidated cabins can be found along the river route bearing witness to the hunting-trapping history of the region, the real history lesson begins at the Hudson’s Bay estuary with the Hudson’s Bay Company. Although well established at York Factory at the mouth of the Hayes River, the Hudson Bay Company, wishing to expand its trading north and westward, established a site at the mouth of the Churchill. The site they chose was the location at which the Danish explorer, Jens Munck, spent the fateful winter with his crew, icebound, while searching for the North West passage. He and all but two of his crew perished of starvation and scurvy in the winter of 1619-20. After loosing the first fort to fire on this site, the fort was rebuilt in 1717 and named Prince of Whales Fort in honor of the British Royal Family. The renowned explorer, Henrey Kelsey helped construct this post during which he also made two inland journeys north beyond Churchill and south to the prairies.

In the 1720’s, threat of aggression from France prompted the Hudson Bay Company to authorize the construction of a stone fortification at Eskimo Point at the mouth of the Churchill River. Tradesmen and labourers were sent from England in 1731 and construction commenced in 1732. The struggle to survive, the short construction season and the need to continue trading slowed the work: it took 40 years to finally complete Prince of Whales Fort II. The walls were 6.5 metes high, 11 meters thick with 40 cannons mounted strategically to cover every approach to the fort. A stone battery was constructed across the Churchill River mouth at Cape Merry (named after Captain John Merry, Deputy Governor of the Hudson Bay Company from 1712-1718 to protect the river from enemy access. The battery was subsequently moved to another location and reinforced. It still stands today, as does the remains of the first battery.

Another interesting site is Sloop Cove. The cove is located on the west side of the Churchill River about 3km from Fort Prince of Whales. It served as a mooring and winter dock for the sloops (wooden sailing vessels) that were used for trading and whaling expeditions. The iron rings, driven into the rocks, are still visible today. Inscriptions on the rocks in Sloop Cove include names of captains, harpooners, shipwrights, carpenters, and shipmates: the most notable of which is explorer, Samuel Herne. He was a 22 year old shipmate for the Hudson Bay Company when he inscribed his name at Sloop Cove.

Little Churchill River Recreation:

The little Churchill river trip and adventure route begins once you’ve untied the canoes from the Dehavilland Otter’s struts and loaded your gear. From Campbell Lake you enter the Rasp River, a quaint little river that has several rapids along its course through Pellitier Lake that will warm you up for what is to come. The only large lake on the system is Waskaiowaka which you will travel its 20 mile length in its entirety to the headwaters of the Little Churchill River. Dunlop’s Fly-in Lodge and Outpost is located at the end of the Lake and Jerry is always happy to see new faces and provide some reassuring advice.

The Little Churchill section begins with a series of class I to III rapids fallowed by pool and riffle sections. This continues until you enter Recluse Lake and fishing. 40 plus inch Northern Pike are routinely caught in this lake qualifying the fisherman for trophy class and Manitoba Master Angler status. Downstream of Recluse is another series of rapids, some which require portaging. Portages are quite identifiable and easily traveled. There is some easy paddling in quite a strong current just prior to the Churchill River. At this point you will be about 8-10 days into your trip depending on the river flows and how keen your group is.

The Churchill is a wide river (approaching ½ kilometer) for most of its course offering an exercise in river reading. There are numerous boulder fields, some which require a major challenge in navigation skills while traversing fast water. Add to that, challenging rapids, the most significant of which is “Portage Chute”. The upper 100 metes is pretty wild with numerous standing waves and is usually too dangerous to run, but if you portage down the island, there is a 7 mile run of rapids. There is a couple of ledges downstream of the ‘Chute’ that can be quite dangerous if you hit them mid stream, so keep to the left or right. Boulder fields continue as you progress downstream, some creating large standing waves which present a challenge. The last section from “Governor Island” to the Bay has some mild white water and requires attention to reading the water and avoiding the shallows.

Campsites along the route are plentiful, including island sites. Be careful to observe all your ‘camping in bear country techniques’ as black bears are present inland and Polar Bears roam inland from the coast as well. There are a few eskers that you can identify along the route and these present great hiking opportunities. Old cabins and relics of the fur trade era can be seen along these elevated travel routes. Moose are abundant along the route and spotting one in or near the river is a common occurrence. Watch for wildlife!

Little Churchill River Access:

Access is from the Venture Air Float Plane Base in Thompson, Manitoba. People and gear, including canoes are loaded into and onto the Dehavilland Otter float plane and flown north for 58 miles to Campbell Lake. All is unloaded and the plane returns to Thompson leaving you and your gear to begin the adventure. Upon arrival at the town of Churchill, you make arrangements for tickets and freight at the VIA Rail Station for your overnight trip back to Thompson Manitoba. The train leaves three times weekly so an overnight in Churchill may be required. Please see ‘accommodations’ for our recommendation. A phone call to Venture Air upon your arrival in Thompson will disperse a vehicle for your transportation back to the Base.

Little Churchill River Services:

There are no services once the float plane drops you off at Campbell River until you get to Dunlop’s Fly in Lodge and outpost at the east end of Waskaoiwaka Lake. They lodging, meals, fishing boats etc. for rent and a satellite phone for emergencies. The next Lodge is at Recluse Lake however it is currently uninhabited until a new owner is secured. Churchill is the only community on the route. It will be about 12 – 14 days from your start point at Campbell Lake.

Little Churchill River Hazards:

Hazards are always present in white water canoeing; this route is no different. Help is many miles away and a means of communication is highly recommended (satellite phone). In addition to the usual hazards of wilderness canoeing, wildlife, particularly black and especially Polar Bears command a lot of respect and precautions in the way of protection are recommended. Scare devices are suggested as a minimum.

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